IMCA Modified Class

I’m trying to see if there is any interest in racing IMCA Modifieds at TCR. IT would be a fast and affordable class for anyone wanting to step it up without the huge expense. I would go for a crate engine class with the IMCA rules to keep the cost down. We will commit to building 2 at our race shop over the winter for ourselves to race and possibly 2 more rollers to sell, if we get enough interest. Other tracks in the state already race modifieds and it could open up more traveling opportunities and bring more racers to our track. Thanks Josh

Here's a link if you don't know what they are.
http://www.imca.com/rules.php?divisionid=1

I got three metric chassis in my yard, it would be a good class. I have worked with USRA Modifieds when i lived in MN. the B-Mods can run 350/350 GM crates. usraracing.com

An IMCA Mod class running 350/350 crates really would be a cool class. There is a few running in Fairbanks I think.

dbass, Would you be willing to commit to a modified? We will need numbers to bring it to the board for a vote.

ya, I just wish i could play more, work sucks!! I'll be home on mon. and should have plenty of time to get my b-stock ready for the 4th. We can get any one willing and intrested together and bring it up to the board. I see in another post scott is asking about a roll cage for a montie, need to talk to him about converting it to a modified. If we can build a strong base of people for the sport it will only grow, which means more fun.

I think this would be a great class and I would be down for building one for sure. I have a lot of blue prints and designs on a good IMCA chassis's. They would not be hard for me to build at all. I even have a IMCA jig to build them on. I think it would be a great class for Alaska because you dont have to find a great car for this class and because everyone knows, good races cars are getting harder to find around here. All you need is a metic frame and all I use is from the rear control links forword part of the frame so the backend could be junk. The bodys on IMCA's are very cheap and could be hand made so theres no BIG Shipping costs there. I think that maybe we would have to look at the tire sizes and IMCA rules a little bit. IMCA rules pretty much only lets you run on one kind of tire and that could cost alaskans a lot of shipping. (LIKE MORE FOR SHIPPING THAN THE TIRES COST) I would think maybe instead of a IMCA tire we could just make a rule of a 10" wide rim and any tire you want to keep the costs down. That whole tire FOOT PRINT RULE is kind of a lame rule if you ask me. Just go off the rim size that way it would be cut and dry..... IMCA rules allso have a few rules on the types of roofs that you can use on your bodys. NO ONE wants to ship a whole car roof to alaska for $1000.00 bucks so that would be something to look into also. I think the GM crate motor would be a great engine to run in this class. I have heard of a few places that say if your not going to run a GM Sealed crate motor that you can build a pretty hot engines but you would be limited to using a 2 barrel carb. So you can run a pretty wild engine if you got one but you would have to run a smaller carb. That would make for someone that has a wrecked b-stock car with a hot engine to step up very easy with out buying a $3000.00 crate motor. most IMCA car can get into running some high dollor aftermarket transmisions and rear ends. I would just say to keep things cheap we would just say no aftermarket stuff and it had to come from a production car.
Without building a chassis yet, I bet that if someone had the frame and a 9" housing I could build the whole chassis without the front A arms and a rear end for around 1600.00 bucks Then 6 or 8 hundred with a body. I would think that a whole rolling car with no motor/trans and gears/wheels would be around $3000.00 maybe $4000.00 with a powered coated chassis and colored body. I would like to put one together 1st but I would think that would be a FAST CHEAPER CLASS to run than say a late model car. I would think by the time you bought a fuel cell and seat and everything else you could be in a hot car for 7 to 9 grand pretty easy. That sounds like a lot but has anyone looked a 4 wheelers and snow machices latey? you can't get alot any more for that kind of money.

I got print outs of rules and spec's for modifides from IMCA and USRA I'll keep with me for when we get together on this topic (at this moment I plan on being at the meeting on 7/5). both rules use a 15x8 steel rims, basset imca rims are 47.95 w/o shipping and beadlocks are 119.95 w/o shipping and they use only one bead lock on the rr only, and pick a tire that can be found around town. Making bodies for these cars is simple, ya IMCA roof specs. are 44-52" side to side and 41-56" front to rear, this is something that can be made at home with our own track spec. to save money. the crate motor rule would keep everyone on the same level and show case a drivers driving ability, more exciting show. poss. 650-700cfm 4-barrel carb. on sealed motors. and for a hot rod home built motor a 2-barrel 500cfm max. carb. some changes would need to be added for some one with ford or chrysler power if they wish to use them. as for drive trains use only OEM, 3-4 speed manuals or automatics, i seen alot just using power glides and 10 bolt rear ends. simple and cheap. alot of tracks set a gear rule, I don't care for that the faster the better.
I talked with you (Dillon) on June 6 about a cage for my regal, I got two complete regals (81' & 83') and one monte (80') rollers, it's either make a mod. or A/B stock car. BUT I like this mod. idea. I'd like to see your chassis blue prints if possible.

We will probably need at a minimum of 5 committed Modified builders before the board will consider this class, last thing we need is another two car class. But with the response we are getting so far I don’t think it will be a problem. If guys are friends with any A or B stock drivers that are looking for a little more speed start talking in their ears. This could be a huge class.

you could also use uni-body cars and set up the rear with leaf springs, then you have easier adjustments on the rear axle angles

I have three differant sets of plans for Modified chassis, One that use's rear leaf springs only. The 2nd set of plans that I have use's mono leaf springs with coil overs, this use's the mono leafs just to locate the rear end and the coil overs are used as 75% of the spring load on the rear end of the car, And the last set of plans use a z-bar set up with coil over springs. I will see if I can post a copy of them on here but they are huge and hanging on my wall in my shop right now.

The problem that I see with uni-body car frames is that in the IMCA rules say that you can only cut the rear of the frame 36" from the rear axle and the rest of the frame must stay intacked. I dont really know if on a uni-body car frame if it would even come that far back. I would not have any problem with anyone that wonted to use one thou. I just think there is better frames out there to use.
I did some reading on the usra rules that you should me and I am not real crazy about some of the motor rules they have in there. I think they would be great somewhere that has 50 cars but it looked like to me that if one person that had alot of cash around here they would kill the class! The USRA make ALOT of very high dollor parts that someone could use. Like a $2500.00 set of CNC heads for starters. The next thing is that you are aloud to use full roller camshafts. I think that would be the sh*t to have all that stuff but lets get real. We have that kind of class it called Late model and they can rarely even get three cars out on the track at once. We need to try to keep people from going out and spending 5 to 10 grand on a engine then that is not fun for the rest that are trying to keep up. That just truns into who can spend the most money race and I think the would kill the modified class idea. We need some rules to keep things cheaper that the USRA rules aloud. I would like to see most people use a GM crate motor because everyone can just walk up and know what you have because of the sealed bolts all over it and I know that you not cheating but we have to keep the backyard gearhead racer that can build a better motor for cheaper in mind to. I am not sure what would be far yet but we are just talking about it anyways. All I know of is there are only 2 maybe 3 people that have said that they would build a car for next year anyways. We would need at lease that many more before we need to look at our rules.

I run the #8 late model and I have ran both the 600hp race shop engine and now am running the 350hp GM 602 sealed crate engine. I can say my car was no quicker with the big motor. And as far as tires go I get mine from Hoosier's website and there 60-80 dollars with a flat 7 dollars for shipping so they are actually cheaper than the tires I used to run on my b-stock car. I believe we got are car as a rolling chassis with a clean body and boxes of extra parts and tires/rims for around $3000 I'm not sure why you think there so expensive but they are actually very affordable and would love to see more cars added to an already established class.